LA ROUTE DU GOÛT 2018: 10 STARRED CHEFS “LOVE THE PLANET”
by Silvana Rivella – Deputy Director of Montecarlotimes – silvana.rivella@gmail.com
MONACO – The Route du Goût (The Road of Taste) is the great annual charity event for organic gastronomy, ecology, health, youth and sports. Organized in Monaco by the Bio Chef Global Spirit Association, under the image and impulse of the Venitian Paolo Sari, the only Chef in the word certified 100% organic and therefore awarded by the Michelin Guide, the Route du Goût is honored to operate under the Patronage of the Prince Albert II of Monaco. The Association presents also its innovative projects, such as the Moses.Bio®, a self-sufficient organic garden floating on the sea.
Moreover, private donations and funds gathered during previous Route du Gout help financing the building of an organic hotel school named “The école de Félix” in Ambavanankarana, Madagascar, the setup of a new open air organic garden of 2 hectares in the region, and the support to a startup for an ecologic and sustainable ecosystem thanks to an irrigation project with water recycling and solar power.
Four dates to remember in Monaco, from Thursday 11th October to Sunday 14th October 2018! The Saturday will be dedicated to society life, with a day devoted to “Chefs Love the Planet”, when a parade composed of 10 Riva boats together with 10 Michelin Guide Starred Chefs exceptionally teams up with 10 amateur cooks. This unique culinary competition will be organized in the afternoon. In the evening, the 10 Starred Chefs will prepare a memorable dinner at the Villa La Vigie, made of 10 masterpieces, one course for each Chef. The first 20-hand dinner ever organised.
So, do find out hereby, in alphabelical order, the ten Starred Chefs’ biographies, the links to their delightful menus “à la carte” and the description of Paolo Sari’s signature dish, the Bio Sama pictured in this article’s cover.
At the Guide Michelin-starred Le Mas Candille in Boulevard Clément Rebuffel in the beautiful Mougins countryside, just 30 minutes drive from Monaco, the Chef Xavier Burelle offers a boutique dining experience. The artistic finesse of the dining room is equally matched by the creative flair of the Chef Xavier Burelle’s dishes. Like i.e. , has he has told us, “The Rockfis, memory of his time in Marseille, with a warm and chilled version of his own Bouillabaisse seafod.” As well as the famous “Pigeon, medium-cooked at low temperature with foie-gras and truffles, garden peas aspic, sweet almond cream”. His guests can dine al fresco beneath the shade-dappled terrace, while enjoying the, stunning views of Grasse and the Pre-Alps, or within the sumptuous surroundings of the main dining room.
The Route du Goût also congratulates the Chef Benoît Charvet, executive chef of the restaurant Georges Blanc in Place du Marché in Vonnas, regarded as one of the twenty pastry chefs to be followed according to the magazine L’Express. Thanks to a tradition that is almost 150 years old you are able to enter the world of great flavours and food products. Today considered as one of the leading Ambassadors of French Gastronomy, the 3 Michelin stars restaurant Georges Blanc in Place du Marché in Vonnas offers a cuisine that combines traditionalism revisited with creativeness around a wide range of top quality products cooked as the seasons go by. A cuisine of great personality, it reflects the Chef’s character and sensibility. Of course, whereas his menu offers the Emblematic Poularde of Bresse Supreme sauced champagne with local porcini mishrooms and a bouquet of automne, the Chef Benoit Charvet great speciality is a range of his inimitable dessert.
High quality cooking that worths a stop! Paolo Frosio, member of the Association Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe is the chef of the Frosio Restaurant together with his brother Camillo,awarded with a Michelin star since 1993. Frosio Restaurant is set in a splendid eighteenth-century villa in Almé, near Bergamo, a beautiful ancient province town of Lombardy, Italy. Four small rooms enlivened each by an old fireplace and an elegant, discreet and shady garden for lunches and dinners outdoors. The thirteenth-century tower, which stands in its austere elegance, hosts a very well stocked wine cellar. Paolo Frosio believes in the old values and in the simplicity of former times so as today anybody who enters in the restaurants of the Frosio family can immediately perceive the entire history of a family that did not leave space for exoticism and did not surrender to momentary fads. With the concreteness of who has solid roots and interests of an open mind, the Frosios follow their way preserving memory and curiosity. Whether you choose meat or fish, you’ll enjoy the same excellent quality of top quality ingredients, and of dishes with distinct flavours that are carefully prepared to a consistently high standard. The same is true for the desserts, the wine and for the excellent value for money, not to be outdone! The cuisine of the Chef Paolo Frosio is a summary of the family history, you do not need words to describe it, just sit at the table.
Since 23rd October 2017 the just 31 years of age, Executive Chef Julien Lucas takes orders for the various kitchens at the Auberge du Jeu de Paume. He is in charge of the gourmet 1 star Michelin “La Table du Connétable” restaurant, the chic “Le Jardin d’Hiver” bistro, room service orders and receptions held at this Relais & Châteaux located in the Domaine de Chantilly. Originally from a village near Sarreguemines, this son of a restauranteur has been immersed since early childhood in an environment filled with quality products and bourgeois recipes, and he dedicated his weekends and holidays to learning from his father in the family’s restaurant. He thus sees the vocation of chef as an obvious choice. Julien Lucas’ desire is to seek his greatest inspiration from the local terroir, which he admits to truly falling in love with. His iconic recipes and “signature dishes” like i.e. the Summer Roe Deer Roasted with fir buds, vegetal mayonnaise and beetroot in salt crust tells how much he is committed to perpetuating a certain French style of living. In his free time he’s a musician, and with 8 years spent at the conservatory, playing the piano is second nature to him.
Today aged 30, the chef Massimiliano Mascia of the 2 Michelin Guide stars San Domenico restaurant in Imola, Emilia Romagna region, Italy has recently told: «My true experience was and still is at the San Domenico. This doesn’t mean that my other experiences in Italy and abroad weren’t fundamental for my professional growth. In Italy I carefully studied raw materials – no other place equals Italy in when it comes to its quality of raw materials.» Massimiliano represents the new generation of the restaurant and is also a symbol of our continuous tradition to innovate and renew while conserving our solid roots in Italian gastronomic tradition. «Our kitchen is very regional – he contidued – to be understood as the quest for ever better raw materials that were created within their ideal environment. It is in constant evolution, with new techniques at the service of tradition. For me, respect for the raw materials and their appropriate seasons are essential elements that constitute the starting point in the process of research and innovation in preparation techniques. My main objective is to create dishes that have clear and well defined flavors, without using an excessive number of ingredients, that reach a balance in which the principle elements of the dish are easily distinguished. I also believe that aesthetics and color schemes are important in dishes, as long as they are functional within the recipe.» He especially recommend one of the “the last born”, the fresh pasta spaghetti “alla chitarra” see picture below:
The guide Gault&Millau elected René Mathieu Chef of the Year 2010 for Luxembourg and since 2012 he also has a Michelin star. His kitchen philosophy truly respects the ingredients and the environment. Every day, he goes out foraging in the woods just next to the castle, where he finds many herbs and vegetables for his kitchen.La Distillerie is one of the most famous fine-dining restaurants in the country Luxembourg. The beauty of the small country between Belgium-Germany and France makes a trip to Luxembourg definitely worthwhile. Few restaurants even ensure an amazing culinary journey, like La Distillerie. The Restaurant is located inside the castle Château De Bourglinster, 8, rue du Château, ‘that can be found in the picturesque town of Bourglinster in the southeast part of Luxembourg. When arriving at the castle guests enter through the impressive bridge and gate, which sets the atmosphere for a memorable authentic experience. Both restaurants have their entrance on the main square inside the castle. The interior of La Distillerie is characterized by the antique style that is found everywhere throughout the castle. Classic white linen, comfortable tables & chairs and atmospheric lighting enhance the comfort. “Today, I create my recipes from my greedy and emotional moments that nourish my passion and my creativity. Each meeting a little “magical with nature”, every pleasant moment of my life, can be at the origin of a recipe. Our philosophy is to give envy … by gestures, tastes, looks, words, sounds. My kitchen is like an adventure, a treasure hunt, with respect for nature and the product.” said Chef René Mathieu, proposing one of his signature dish with the first color and flavor of autumn, “The Foie gras cooked in casserole / bark and flowers of Hogweed” as well as this delicious “Cucumber & Melon vegetarian delight” pictured below:
In the heights of Gordes, located in a unique setting of a sumptuous dry stone country house in the Route de Murs in the village of Joucas, Xavier Mathieu’s gourmet restaurant Le Phébus has large rooms and large terrace overlooking the Luberon Valley, inviting to enjoy delicious moments of relaxation and definitely Provencal culinary discoveries. This high gastronomic place awarded by the Michelin Guide, combines conviviality and lifestyle. Constantly looking for the best, the starred chef Xavier Mathieu subtly draws its inspiration from the recipes of his Provencal’s land that he reinterprets with elegance and creativity depending of the seasonal markets, and offers vegan and vegetarian menus to complete his appetizing creations. His cuisine, blending subtle flavors, textures and colors, invites you to a gourmet travel through the heart of Provence, sublimating the sometimes forgotten classics, like i.e. the sublime “Trout fished from the near river Sorgue, served with fresh almonds” as well as the beautiful “Tartare de langoustine, jus de pommes, langoustine mi-cuite”, pictured below:
Errico Recanati, Head Chef of Restaurant Andreina in Loreto, Marche, Italy since 1997, has won the Michelin Star in 2012. He was born in the grandmother’s kitchen with wild game and spit, he has formed with very important international chefs. “Past & future is like minus & plus, combining & canceling I would get to a real cooking. And I found the meeting point between past-present-future-truths in its primordial cooking skewer and grill: nothing more primitive and current. I’m working hard to re-evaluate this area yet so little explored.” Errico Recanati says, thus confirming how he grew up the idea of a “neorural” cooking: where the tradition blends with new tecniques and modern research. In fact, one of his most famous dish that combine Marche’s hills and sea, is “L’ostrica si dà le arie di brace” aka “The oyster feeling for coals and embers” , where the pearl is made of rounded oyster’s water, and the core is smoked in osmosis. So cool!
As for Paolo Sari, he was extremely kind when he exceptionally revealed to me his until then well kept secret recipe of perhaps his most famous dish, the Bio Sama! So, directly from the Restaurant Elsa of the Monte Carlo Beach Hotel, situated in Monaco in Avenue Princesse Grace, here the chef preparation, preceded by a perfect declaration about what food must be: “Bio Sama – All vegetables and herbs come from my garden! Bio Sama tells who I am more than any other preparations. The name is composed by the two words Bio, Biological and Sama, a form of respect in Japanese for something important and publicly acknowledged. Bio Sama is love and respect towards nature, towards the planet, towards ourselves and our health. Respect for local market gardeners and customers.Bio Sama is a caméléonne preparation, it is present in the menus all the year but changes of visual and taste every day according to the daylight of the day.
A collection made with ingredients that at 6am are in the open ground, at 10am are in the kitchen and at noon are served at the table!”
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Ingredients for 4 persons: 1/2 shallot chopped; 200 g of whole peas; 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil; Salt pepper; 3 cl peas’ stock; 12 slices Mini fennels; 20 slices of zucchini; 20 slices of carrots; 15 slices mini white turnip; 15 slices mini red turnip; 15 green asparagus slices; 15 multicolored radish slices; 20 mini fava beans; 20 peas; 50 salad leaves sprouts; Camargue salt; 4 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil; Borage flowers; Rosemary flowers; Capucine leaves.
Method: Remove the peas from their washed pods. Put the pods in a saucepan with 1 liter of water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook for 20 minutes. Fry the chopped shallot with the oil in a saucepan, add the peas and cook gently for one minute. Add broth, salt and pepper and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from heat, mix and let cool. Wash all the vegetables and slice them finely. Place two spoons of pea puree in the middle of the plate and spread it in a circular direction to form a circle 10 cm in diameter with a thickness of 3 millimeters. Compose the Bio Sama starting with zucchini and carrots, large-volume vegetables to finish with the smaller and more delicate vegetables, to form a nice bouquet. Season with extra virgin oil and some salt flower seeds. Complete with flowers and herbs as pictured in this article’s cover and in the artistic sketch above.
Finalyy, standing ovation for the inventive Sylvestre Wahid! Here the real creativity of the chef is not at the service of his ego but for the pleasure of his client. With 2 stars in the Michelin Guide, the Sylvestre in the 7th arrondissement of Paris offers a sublime cuisine, modern and refined. The plates are served in an intimate boudoir where the green dominates, such as a winter garden roof glass. Sylvestre Wahid develops its menu with exceptional products and precision cooking (vertical, soft, steam). The result is 3 culinary tours around plants, seafood or signature dishes. The appetizer is made around a tasty Thai broth, seasoned at your leisure with 4 different salts. In the midst of plants, the restaurant Sylvestre is dotted with acid colors and warm fabrics on armchairs and benches. With twenty seats, the atmosphere is intimate and the service, far from being stilted, is family without being familiar. bove the brasserie Thoumieux by Sylvestre, the chef opens the doors of haute-couture cuisine. Perhaps it’s futile to ask him to describe a method to his madness. Creating a dish, for Sylvestre Wahid is traversing that intangible, indescribable area between art and science. “The most important element is happiness. You must be happy to do something for some person. If you don’t enjoy what you make, you can’t be happy. You can’t create a good dish you are angry or in a bad mood, If I am coming to work, I want to weave magic,” he says. Magic can’t be explained. It just has to be experienced. Or tasted.
